On our way to Bogotá: Lidie and Marius are sleeping. In the plane are many asiatic and french people; I haven’t yet heard much spanish! Even at the hight of 10 km we fly just above the clouds, which gives quite some turbulence. Warnings for this are given in spanish. The welcome in Bogotá, however, is also given in korean! It appears that half the plane is filled with very young koreans who come here to work.
Op weg naar Bogotá; Lidie en Marius slapen. In het vliegtuig zitten veel fransen en aziaten; ik hoor nog weinig spaans spreken. Op 10 km hoogte boven de Oceano Atlantico vliegen we vlak boven een wolkendek dat vrij veel turbulentie geeft. Waarschuwingen worden wel in het spaans omgeroepen.
Met welke verwachtingen maakten we deze reis 32 jaar geleden? En welke verwachtingen hebben we nu? Dat we Boudewijn in goede conditie zullen aantreffen in het hotel straks.
Tijdens de landing op El Dorado vliegen we door een hagelbui. “Touché” roepen de franse stewardessen en klappen. Het vliegveld lijkt niet groter dan 30 jaar geleden. De weg naar het centrum is mooier geworden en drukker, beplant met palmen en eucalyptusbomen. De taxichauffeur vindt met moeite het hotel: wat is hij blij als we het vinden!
In this blog I want to share my admiration for travelers like La Condamine (1701-1774) who went down the Amazone river without much more than an old map (of Samuel Fritz, 1707) and some measuring instruments.
13 April 2007
09 April 2007
In preparation of following La Condamine's footsteps
In preparation of following La Condamine’s footsteps:
Notes taken and translated from the Introduction by Hélène Minguet to the book “Voyage sur L’Amazone” by Charles-Marie de La Condamine.
Librairie F. Maspero, 1981. Paris. ISBN 2-7071-1219-4. The book is based on the lecture given by La Condamine for the French Academy of Sciences on November 7, 1745, entitled “Abridged Narrative of Travels through the Interior of South America, from the Shores of the Pacific Ocean to the coasts of Brazil and Guyana, descending the river of the Amazonas”.
La Condamine was born in Paris on 28-1-1701. He studied physics and geography, took part in an expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa (in 1731) and was chosen as a member of the expedition of Louis Godin to Peru. For his appointment by the French Academy of Sciences he was strongly supported by his friend Voltaire.
Task of the expedition was to solve the controversy on the shape of the earth between Newton in England (who thought that the earth was flattened at the Poles) and Cassini in Paris (who thought the earth to be flkattened at the Equator).
The expedition departed on May 16, 1735 with the battleship Portefaix. On board were the following members: Louis Godin (leader) and Pierre Bougueur (both mathematiciens), Joseph de Jussieu (naturalist and physician), Couplet, Hugot, Verguin, Morainville, Godin des Ordonnais (engineers and technicians), Seniergues (surgeon) and La Condamine. They arrived in Carthagena (Colombia) where two spanish lieutenants, don Jorge Juan y Santacilia and don Antonio de Ulloa, joined the expedition. By boat and on foot they transversed the Panama isthmus and sailed to Puerto de Manta (in present-day Ecuador).
On his way to Quito, La Condamine meets the carthographer Pedro Vicente de Maldonado. They become good friends and together they explore the Rio Esmeraldas, where they discover the metal platina and the elastic substance called cahuchuc (rubber). In the mean time they perform position measurements improving the previous maps of the region. Their friendship was of principal importance in their decision to descend the Amazon.
In Quito the expedition was not allowed to continue their work for some time as the Spanjards suspected them to look for inca treasures. Thanks to the older brother of Maldonado, La Condamine was allowed to see a secret map made in 1685 by the german jesuite “Father Fritz” and kept in the archives at Quito. With this information Maldonado and La Condamine depart from a place south of Cuenca (Tarqui), not without difficulties on 11 May 1743 (see map).
Notes from the book:
During the first part of their trip they have four “accidents” on the river in which all the instruments, books and papers became wet. They have to wait until the water becomes more quiet…..
On August 1, 1743 La Condamine reached Pebas, just downstream of the confluence with the Rio Napo. From the last spanish mission there to the first portugese mission at S.Paulo it took them 3 days and nights. During this trajectory, in which they must have passed present-day Leticia, they didn’t see any sign of inhabitants along the river shores, although in “ancient” times the islands must have been populated by the Omagua indians (“the most populous region encountered so far” as Carvajal noted during the Orellana-expedition that passed there in May 1542).
The river is broader here, giving rise to heavier storms. Thanks to the experience of the indian rowers they in time found shelter in one of the many little side rivers. When nearing S. Paulo a large “brigantin” with 14 rowers and a portugese guide came to meet them. They were sent by the missionary.
From here on La Condamine would travel in portugese canoe’s, which were larger and more comfortable than the indian boats. It takes them 5 days and nights to reach Coari.
Notes taken and translated from the Introduction by Hélène Minguet to the book “Voyage sur L’Amazone” by Charles-Marie de La Condamine.
Librairie F. Maspero, 1981. Paris. ISBN 2-7071-1219-4. The book is based on the lecture given by La Condamine for the French Academy of Sciences on November 7, 1745, entitled “Abridged Narrative of Travels through the Interior of South America, from the Shores of the Pacific Ocean to the coasts of Brazil and Guyana, descending the river of the Amazonas”.
La Condamine was born in Paris on 28-1-1701. He studied physics and geography, took part in an expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa (in 1731) and was chosen as a member of the expedition of Louis Godin to Peru. For his appointment by the French Academy of Sciences he was strongly supported by his friend Voltaire.
Task of the expedition was to solve the controversy on the shape of the earth between Newton in England (who thought that the earth was flattened at the Poles) and Cassini in Paris (who thought the earth to be flkattened at the Equator).
The expedition departed on May 16, 1735 with the battleship Portefaix. On board were the following members: Louis Godin (leader) and Pierre Bougueur (both mathematiciens), Joseph de Jussieu (naturalist and physician), Couplet, Hugot, Verguin, Morainville, Godin des Ordonnais (engineers and technicians), Seniergues (surgeon) and La Condamine. They arrived in Carthagena (Colombia) where two spanish lieutenants, don Jorge Juan y Santacilia and don Antonio de Ulloa, joined the expedition. By boat and on foot they transversed the Panama isthmus and sailed to Puerto de Manta (in present-day Ecuador).
On his way to Quito, La Condamine meets the carthographer Pedro Vicente de Maldonado. They become good friends and together they explore the Rio Esmeraldas, where they discover the metal platina and the elastic substance called cahuchuc (rubber). In the mean time they perform position measurements improving the previous maps of the region. Their friendship was of principal importance in their decision to descend the Amazon.
In Quito the expedition was not allowed to continue their work for some time as the Spanjards suspected them to look for inca treasures. Thanks to the older brother of Maldonado, La Condamine was allowed to see a secret map made in 1685 by the german jesuite “Father Fritz” and kept in the archives at Quito. With this information Maldonado and La Condamine depart from a place south of Cuenca (Tarqui), not without difficulties on 11 May 1743 (see map).
Notes from the book:
During the first part of their trip they have four “accidents” on the river in which all the instruments, books and papers became wet. They have to wait until the water becomes more quiet…..
On August 1, 1743 La Condamine reached Pebas, just downstream of the confluence with the Rio Napo. From the last spanish mission there to the first portugese mission at S.Paulo it took them 3 days and nights. During this trajectory, in which they must have passed present-day Leticia, they didn’t see any sign of inhabitants along the river shores, although in “ancient” times the islands must have been populated by the Omagua indians (“the most populous region encountered so far” as Carvajal noted during the Orellana-expedition that passed there in May 1542).
The river is broader here, giving rise to heavier storms. Thanks to the experience of the indian rowers they in time found shelter in one of the many little side rivers. When nearing S. Paulo a large “brigantin” with 14 rowers and a portugese guide came to meet them. They were sent by the missionary.
From here on La Condamine would travel in portugese canoe’s, which were larger and more comfortable than the indian boats. It takes them 5 days and nights to reach Coari.
22 March 2007
Voorbereiding reis Bogotá-Leticia-Manaus-Boa Vista-Paramaribo
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VoorbereidingReis

Onze reis begint in Bogotá aan de bergketen van de Andes, geboorteplaats van Marius en Boudewijn. In Bogotá zullen we natuurlijk de Casa de la Madre y el Niño bezoeken, waar we hen in 1975 en 1978 opgehaald hebben; het huis van de ambassadeur aan de Calle 87 waar we gelogeerd hebben, het Museo del Oro, de Barrio La Candelaria, Monserrate en nog veel meer. Boudewijn zal er onze gids zijn, omdat hij er al teruggeweest is in 2000 en er al is als wij aankomen. Bogotá ligt op een hoogte van 2600 m (kookt het water er inderdaad bij 85°C?).
Charles Marie de la Condamine (1701-1774) was een franse wiskundige en geograaf. Hij werd in 1735 uitgezonden naar Ecuador om op de evenaar de kromming van de aarde te meten (de fransen meenden, dat de aarde aan de evenaar afgeplat was; Newton had echter gelijk: de aarde is afgeplat aan de polen! Vergelijk een voetbal die 0.7 mm is ingedrukt….).
Op 11 mei 1743 vertrok la Condamine vanaf Tarqui (?) voor zijn tocht door de Andes (Cordillera Oriental) en over de Amazone naar Cayenne. Na een lange reis bereikte hij volgens een tekst op een surinaamse poster van Paul Woei (2001) en zoals weergegeven op de kaart hieronder in 1744 Cayenne. Daar vulde hij zijn botanische monsters aan en deed metingen en proeven, o.a. met het meegebrachte curare-gif. Na 5 maanden vertrok hij op uitnodiging van de heer Mauricius, gouverneur van de hollandse kolonie Suriname, naar Paramaribo (Smith, 1990). Van daaruit vertrok hij op een hollands schip naar Amsterdam waar hij in november aankwam. Bijna 10 jaar na zijn vertrek, kwam hij uiteindelijk in Parijs aan.
Deze beschrijving bracht het idee om voor onze reis van Bogotá naar Paramaribo, gedeeltelijk eenzelfde route te nemen.
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